Category Archives: Pannels

Marking, drilling, fitting pannels

fitting final panels + pedals

43 + 43=46hrs

Fitting the final panels, the RH exterior panel, the two floor panels (Laura loves turning the chassis over 🙂 )

Not a lot to say here, these went on fine. the silkaflex stuff seems really good, very sticky, but nice sealant, goes of quick too, which is good, but means tubes must be used the same day really – expensive at £10 a tube, it ought be good!

fitted the final bits of the pedals, ordered the new clevis pins of the Internet in the end after finding nowhere sells clevis pins locally! I was after something very specific though…

Fitted though,three pedals and two master cylinders, as I’ve found the clutch master cylinder will have to come off when it comes to fitting the brake pipes to the neighbouring brake master cylinder – that’ll be fun!

Note i have fitted the LH inner tunnel panel, I suspect this may not be the right thing to do long term, but i wanted to get it all done, and didnt see the pipes going down the tunnel – we will see.

Since Id finished all the panels I went about tidying the chassis up – this meant going around sealanting the holes left in the chassis/panels. generally finding bits of light poking through the panels.

Also I found the odd rivet hadnt broken off 100% perfectly, only 5 or so, and usually those in difficult places. So i went about dremelling the little sharp tips smoothe – 🙂 Again – this is not a build of speed!

Riveting seat back panel and starting pedals

40.5hrs + 2.5hrs = 43hrs

Frist off I fitted the seat back panel after quickly giving the chassis rails a wipe with white spirit then cleaning off with water.

Amazingly the large seatback panel went on fine, it’s always a bit of a pain to negotiate into place but was still a good fit.Once in place and sat on the sealant i went about rivetting. The only thing of note was that there were two rivets I couldnt get to pull – they were just in such tight angles there was no chance of getting the rivet gun in. not an issue though as there were loads of rivets around it and it was on a good bed of sealant.

Cleaned up the stray sealant with white spirit, may want to fit a couple of scraps of ali around holes that ended too big.

Then fitted the GRP diff cover to the unriveted holes on the seatback and RH inner tunel panel, this was pretty easy, it is springy though!

I then went about fitting the pedals, as someone else mentioned on another blog (can’t recall exactly which), the clutch pedal mounting bracket was a fraction too tight, so a bolt and a few nuts were used to open it up a mm or two.

Once done it was fairly plain sailing, sleeve in, copper slipped, stud through, washers on, buts on etc. glad i left the RH external panel off, i can see this being a rigth pain with the panels all in place.

I will hold my hands up and admit in the excitement, the tiredness and rushing i did bold the brake master cylinder to the cluth position – five minutes later i looked at it and wondered what i was doing – at that point i knew it was time to stop!

After swapping through the right master cylinder the clutch part was fitted and sorted.

Since WF sent me a missing bolt and the missing operator fork/clevis i was open to fit the brake pedal too. Noting the brake operating fork/clevis was a larger one than the slightly flimsy looking clutch one. The new one is much fatter and weightier – it ws noted this was for brake use.

All well and good but i’ve now found the clevis pin doesnt fit through it long enough to get the split pin through – sigh.

So either thinner washers are required – or a slightly longer clevis pin.

 

 

 

RH Inner tunnel panel riveting

39.5 hrs + 1hr = 40.5hrs

Riveting the Inner panel – only the RH one mind as the LH one will stay on until the gearbox gets in – makes filling oil easier I believe.

This wasnt as troublesome as I thought it may, and fitted in nicely to a spare evening.

Attaching panels 1

36hrs + 3.5 = 39.5

At last, with chassis drilled and panels tweeked, and chassis treated for any scratches and the tiny marks it was panel fitting time.

I knew this was going to be hard work and time consuming. No great suprise, it was.

As my paint was a tad tacky from the touchups I couldnt really do the inner tunnel panels. That said, as advised from other blogs I am going to leave of the RH external panel, and the LH inner tunnel panel.

So with this in mind I set ahead with the tunnel end panels, both RH and LH, end and side.

This let me get to gribs with the sealant, lots of recommendataions for Silkaflex, and indeed it is excellent, it was a little guess work to get flow rate etc, it’s obviouslky quite thick stuff as decanting it with a silocone gun was quite tough, certainly never found a silicone that is this hard work to get out teh tube!

So I got on with siliconing the tube, the key seems to be more than less, too much can be wiped off.

Now, the riveting, this was tough 🙂 It all seemed to depend on the angle i was at as to how difficult it was.

I do see why people have air riviters! That or i need to rope in a larger pal.

Today in about 3 hours I got the RH and LH tunnel ends and sides. The scuttle top panel. and the LH exterior panel.

Odd that the time/difficulty didnt necessarily be down to the size of the panel,more down to how accessable the rivets are. It does certainly look a lot better with something attached to it though!

A tad depressing how long it took to attach only these coulple, I realy thought I’d get more done in that time. That said I “only” have RH exterior panel (being leftoff until pedals are done), both inner tunel panels (LR being left off – I think, not sure yet, may jsut workround the transmission oil thing). Seat back. Floor panels. I didnt wan to have to turn the chassis upside down again, but after the fun of rivetting today I suspect it may be far better to do so.

Next job is to mail WF to confirm a couple of pedal bits, they don’t quite match those mentionedin the manual (are you suprised? I’m not 🙂 )

Then I would be looking to get hold of the fuel pipes, brake pipe clips, fuel pipe clips and a means of attaching the wiring loom (no mention or suggestion of how this is done in the manual).

I can’t help but think the above 4 bits ought be in the

starer kit – but they arent, they are in the completion kit.

Preventative rust treatment

34+ 2 = 36hrs

After a chat with Mark from WF I was advised that the transmission hoop could do with treating, but the otehr bits are likely nothing, just where water has sat. In this case it was likely condensation in the garage.

After much investigation POR15 kept coming up as the best thing to put on any bits that needed treatment. Likely it is very much overkill given the chassis is new, but as nothing was attached it seemed made to not do it.

So after finding Holden were about the only people in the UK to stock the stuff i ordered a “starter kit” of it. It arrived and is excellent stuff. Quite particual about how it should be used, and the instruction are quite, er, Americanised!? Lots of slightly OTT comments in them.

That said you do need to use it in a well ventilated area, i was in my garage with the door open the whole time, but a couple of hours with the stuff has given me a sore throat and made me look like I have a penchant for heroin. Namely a really white face and very panda eyes. Obvious strong stuff, so do heed the warnings!

Anyway,I applied the Marine Clean, Metal Ready, then two coats of POR15. Followed by 4 thin coats of satin black Hamerite.

Initially I suspected I’d apply the treatment sparingly on tiny areas, but when I applied it i ensured the areas of interest got a good coverage.

A couple of pics of the work, this is after one coat of hammerite, you get the gist.

Why no progress? And pedal organisation

1 hr + 33hrs = 34hrs
Why no progress? Well, not been away or anyhing particuarly glamorous. A bit of a set back in that I had noticed brown dots appearing over the chassis, also noted a few rusty brown specs here and there. This, needless to say was/is a bit of cause for concern. Especially as I was about to fit the carefully drilled panels.

I’ve pinged out to the WSCC forum, and found several people had had issues with the WF powdercoating – being, er, not brilliant. My concern was that I’d be fitting panels, and ultimatyely building a car around a corroding chassis.

So I have found that the dots wipe off, but still not 100% sure there isnt a bigger problem

I’ve since called Mark from WFs Technical people and he mentioned this can happen if the chassis gets damp outside and water sits on it. Although i konw my garage doesnt leak,I do know it gets cold in there and can condensate. Mark suggested i spray the whole chassis with wd40 and wipe it down to give a little covering at this stage. I’ve done this and it does look a bit better.

Mark has some photos of the chassis for him to take a look over, hopefully he will instill me with confidence.

I have bought a POR 15 starer kit as is strongly advised when doing touch ups on the paint work. So I plan to use this on parts like the bottom of the transmission hoop, where it has found a 3cm x 1cm scratch, tad annoyed by this.

Also in the excitement I have looked over the pedal setup. this bit looks pretty straight forward, but I cant really start this until the tunnel end panel is on to drill the accelerator cable hole through, and i cant start panelling until i get Mark from WFs green light all looks okay.

What was a little disappointing/unsuprising 🙂 was that the required bits for pedals arent really there. Like the stud for the clutch pedal, it’s 70mm, not what is says in the manual. not the end of the world at all, and looking at other blogs it looks like it pretrudes from the mount about the same amount, so I guessit is the right size.

However the bolts (or are they screwsets!?) arent the length specified in the manual, however there are only two that are a plausible size. Again, not the end of the word,  just means it may get interesting when it comes to making educate decisions around what is right going forward. All part of the fun I suppose 🙂 That said, it does make me think, how hard would it be to make the manual be 100% accurate, or to have as part of the kit 100% the “right parts”. I know it’s not going to be “big lego”, but equally I do feel they could make everyones life easier! </end rant> 🙂

a few pics of some areas of question. and of me looking at pedal parts.

Drilling Lh floor panel

31.5 + 1.5 = 33hrs

this one was easier – well not easier, but like lots of things in life, was easier the second time.

Drilled and filed the odd shape in the panel to get a nice flat and panel.

Something I did note was that the transmission hoop has clearly been rubbed over the chassis life, the powder coat has rubbed off and I have some surface rust 😦

Quite disappointed about that, especialy as I know I hadnt done the damage myself 😦 nothing that can’t be fixed I suppose, and I needed to touch a few bits up anyway.

Drilling RH floor panel

1.5 + 30 =31.5hrs

First job the other day was to rope my pal Amit in to flip the chassis – nice and easy, and not that heavy. Back of the chassis didnt quite fit on the wooden dolly, but not a problem.

Drilled and lined up etc the LH floor panel. First thing to note was the floor panels are different, not something imediately evident. The driver side is a tad wider, as is the gap it fits in of course – only a couple of cms though.

I suspected this would be easy, flat panel on a flat gap – like the scuttle top.

Sadly not, not dire, but just not lineup and drill.

When i did eventually get a decent lineup I figured it was a good call to do some fettling of the panel, specifically around the transmissions tunel hoop, the weld on this encroached onto my panel space, hence i rounded a little gap in the panel to get a flat fit.

Also had to add a couple of indents into the panel where the weld is on the prewelded floor panels, not a problem but something i figured out be done to get a nice flat fit.

Finally i needed to put a slight angle in the front of the panel to get a perpendicular/parralel lineup to the chassis rails and front LH tunnel panel.

Not a painful panel, but one that required a few tiny adjustments to get a nice flat fit.

Drilling RH external panel

28.5hrs + 1.5 = 30hrs

Same as the other side really, didnt line up as I’d like!

Something isn’t straight, haven’t quite figured what it is, could be the chassis is at a everso slight an angle, enough to make the panel not parrallel or perpendicular in all places – oh well. As good a fit as I can get.

Easier then the other side i suppose, but this could just be as it was the second one?

Only the front floor panels and paneling to be done! As noted by Mark, looks like I’ll leave off the LH exterior panel and RH tunel panel.

Rope in Laura for turning the chassis upside down tomorrow – little does she know…

Starting to line up the RH exterior panel

28+ 0.5 = 28.5hrs

I’ve not ground to a halt! Just been away and been busy.

Started to line up the panel, it’s a pain but will get there eventually!

Hopefuly shall get it drilled on the weekend – won’t be riveting it yet though, as Mark mentioned it hamperes pedal fitting access.

Not long and I will be tapping up Laura for her first “help session” – flipping the chassis to fit the front floor panels. £1 per help apparently.