Coolant Reroute

220+15hrs = 235hrs

Again, I have not fallen off the edge of the planet, updating the blog has become something that gets slotted into a sleep for the little one, when I am not catching up. Averaging 2 hours a week of work on the car, so slowly slowly catchy monkey. On the subject of Monkeys my little 7 month old has another cold 😦 garage time could be used for sleeping in the garage.

I digress. The much talked about coolant reroute, it’s documented in numerous places, links below, but more pics and description cannot hurt. The stock mazda coolant layout has the thermostat at the front of the block where the top rad mount takes the hot water, through a nice case ali fitment. The water enters through another cast piece on the front, lower section of the block, with a few spurs to take water of to the back of the block, ultimately for heater type uses. Here comes the need to a coolant rethink – the stock mazda fitment has a heater, a hose takes water off the back of the head for routing around the heating system – the WF has no heater, hence no coolant flow to the back of the head.

The concept of the reroute is AFAIK similar to that used on the mazda 323 and quite well documented for WF and non-WF blogs

some links I squirreled are here:

So my reroute is following exactly these principals, with a few things of note. I blocked off the front block opening with a piece of aluminium plate – the I’ve fitted the temperature sensor normally fitted to the back of the block here – wire to be extended. Also fitted a bleed screw at the top of the new blanking plate as that seemed a sensible
Hoses were from AshHoses, who with their 15% off (code = ashhoses) have been excellent. I’ve never dealt with silicone hoses before, I knew they looked nice, but no dealings-they’re quite pleasant to work with, pretty forgiving, and choppable with a sharp Stanley blade and a hose clip to get a straight-ish edge.
For the rear of the head I’ve sealed the new fitting (1.6 housing) outlet that’s not required. a M16 (I recall) fine thread bolt was located on ebay to fill this gap – and some sealant and a copper washer.
now with the original casting that was on the front of the engine now fitted where the water pump inlet is it just needed plumbing up.
rigid ali pipe used along the length of the chassis rail and some nice blue hoses from ASH to fill the gaps. they also provide some ali joints with spurs of different dia attached, saved a welding convo with someone…
pics below! quite a satisfying job. Only a couple of notes:
The rad lower outlet is pretty close to the steering rack rubber covers – the hose is pulled away appropriately with cable ties.
If/When I fit a water temperate sensor to go with an aftermarket gauge where will the sensor go? I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it:)
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