Riveting seat back panel and starting pedals

40.5hrs + 2.5hrs = 43hrs

Frist off I fitted the seat back panel after quickly giving the chassis rails a wipe with white spirit then cleaning off with water.

Amazingly the large seatback panel went on fine, it’s always a bit of a pain to negotiate into place but was still a good fit.Once in place and sat on the sealant i went about rivetting. The only thing of note was that there were two rivets I couldnt get to pull – they were just in such tight angles there was no chance of getting the rivet gun in. not an issue though as there were loads of rivets around it and it was on a good bed of sealant.

Cleaned up the stray sealant with white spirit, may want to fit a couple of scraps of ali around holes that ended too big.

Then fitted the GRP diff cover to the unriveted holes on the seatback and RH inner tunel panel, this was pretty easy, it is springy though!

I then went about fitting the pedals, as someone else mentioned on another blog (can’t recall exactly which), the clutch pedal mounting bracket was a fraction too tight, so a bolt and a few nuts were used to open it up a mm or two.

Once done it was fairly plain sailing, sleeve in, copper slipped, stud through, washers on, buts on etc. glad i left the RH external panel off, i can see this being a rigth pain with the panels all in place.

I will hold my hands up and admit in the excitement, the tiredness and rushing i did bold the brake master cylinder to the cluth position – five minutes later i looked at it and wondered what i was doing – at that point i knew it was time to stop!

After swapping through the right master cylinder the clutch part was fitted and sorted.

Since WF sent me a missing bolt and the missing operator fork/clevis i was open to fit the brake pedal too. Noting the brake operating fork/clevis was a larger one than the slightly flimsy looking clutch one. The new one is much fatter and weightier – it ws noted this was for brake use.

All well and good but i’ve now found the clevis pin doesnt fit through it long enough to get the split pin through – sigh.

So either thinner washers are required – or a slightly longer clevis pin.

 

 

 

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Comments

  • Andrew Freeburn  On September 12, 2011 at 11:12 pm

    Hi. I am absolutely loving your blog – which has been invaluable to me as I have just started a complete WF kit a few weeks ago. Am still at the panel stages, but notice you refer to a GRP diff cover. I haven’t found that yet in my kit, was it supplied by WF? Thanks for your help.

    • andyismilesaway  On September 13, 2011 at 7:33 pm

      glad someone reads it, let alone it be useful! so thank you.

      the GRP diff cover may well be something unique to the mx5 sdv kit, as the diff ends up a little off center and would pretrude into the drivers side sitting area. I believe the complete kits use a ford diff, and i suspect this doesnt need the strange triangular bit of grp.

      the way to tell i guess is whether the two transmission tunnel panels (the long ones) are the same. in my case one covered the whole left hand side of the trans tunnel, on the drivers side it covered 90%, and the diff cover the rest.

      hope that helps

      • Andrew Freeburn  On September 26, 2011 at 10:49 pm

        Thank you. Have panels on at last! D
        You talk about filling the larger holes with scrap pieces of ali – did you do that in the end ?

        I was going to try to put a silicone bead around all of mine.

        Am at a standstill now as am missing a few bolts and bits from the pedals and hoping WF will send them out this week!

        Andrew

  • Andy  On September 27, 2011 at 8:24 am

    Excellent, panels on is a nice landmark and makes it looks from a climbing frame to a boat – small steps!

    I haven’t filled the larger gaps with scrap so far.

    The only panel I couldnt seal completely with sealant was the seat back. All other panels I went about with squidging sealant in all the holes in panels I could find.

    The seatback had gaps around the middle of the panel (in height) at the extreme right and left edges, where it is cutout for a chassis rail – I recall I had to trim these cutouts and may have done a couple of mm too far, hance ended with a small gap.

    That said I figured with carpet in there, and not being anywhere near the road (i.e it’s much higher) I’d leave them asthey are, maybe I’ll revisit this, not 100% sure yet.

    Missing bolts and bits… that sounds familiar!

    Pedals is a tad fiddly – but very rewarding – makes a real aesthetic difference, I’ve re-cut the master cylinder bolts down a couple of times now to try and get the perfect line up of pedals – I expect this will still get adjusted over time.

  • Andrew Freeburn  On September 27, 2011 at 9:32 pm

    Many thanks for your reply Andy.

    Had a go at siliconing tonight. I taped off the good side to hopefully provide a flat neat surface on the outside. I will see how that look when I take off the tape tomorrow!!

    I will keep in touch if you don’t mind as I get the impression you are very thorough and take a lot if pride in getting it right – and that’s pretty much me too.

    Best wishes
    Andrew

  • Andrew Freeburn  On October 1, 2011 at 8:53 pm

    Hi Andy

    Was looking to buy a torque wrench, but when I looked through the build manual at all the settings, I would probably need to buy 3 different ones (the range seems to be from 7NM to 340NM).

    How have you found it?

    Andrew

    • andyismilesaway  On October 2, 2011 at 8:19 pm

      To be honest I’ve not had to use my torque wrench yet, still yet to have to do anything up really tight! hmm, maybe the brake pressure switch into the 3 way…

      Anyway, I ended up with one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000ROF64O/ref=oss_product

      Which for the uses I have had has been excellent – doesnt cover the whole range, but does a fair amount.

      Hope that helps! Do you have a blog I can learn stuff from too?

      • Andrew Freeburn  On October 2, 2011 at 8:55 pm

        That looks promising as far as the ranges. Halfords professional range actually get the best reviews, although the ranges are quite tight.

        I haven’t gone for a blog yet, I only got the kit in September and because I use computers all day, I was trying to resist the temptation to totally integrate it into my hobby!!

        I am more than happy to help if I can and please email me at andrew.freeburn@btinternet.com.

        Still mucking about with the pedals tonight and noted a similar problem that you identified over how tight the brake pressure switch thread is! Dud you resolve that one – it feels a bit too tight to force!

  • Andy  On October 3, 2011 at 7:55 am

    Hi Andrew,

    I posted a similar question to Mark at WF…
    Excuse brevity… busy day!

    The brake pressure switch was a tight fit into the 3 way connector (with copper washer). I expected it to be tight but after a few threads it required holding in a vice (with wood) and switch turning with a spanner. Is this normal? Only I have now read there are different thread tapers on the switches.

    The brake pressure switch is normally an m10 x 1 pitch thread. A good check of the tee piece is to try to screw in, as a test, one of the front flexi brake pipes. If it doesn’t fit in place then the tee piece is wrong.

  • Andrew Freeburn  On October 5, 2011 at 7:25 pm

    Thanks Andy

    I haven’t managed to get anywhere near the garage for ages due to work!!

    Will check it out. Hopefully your build is going well?

    Andrew

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