Monthly Archives: April 2011

starting brakes

46hrs + 2hrs = 48hrs

I wast – and arent really looking forward to this  bit, maybe as there is an element of skill required 🙂

I started of as per the manual by fitting the brake pressure switch to the 3 way with the 10mm copper washer – as ever not always simple. This threaded fine for a few threads then became very tight, hopefully this is expected. The only reason i question this is that i subseqently read on WSCC that there ar edifferent threads for these components – I can only hope i have the right ones!

I;ve mailed WF to ask about this – no reply thus far, they don;t seem so good with email.

I also cleaned up the studs that hold the front and rear 3 ways, finally a use for my tap (or is it a die?). nice clean thread anyway, no powdercoating.

Stuck a nut and washer on there, a nice and easy bit…

Now is/was the time for pipes, this seems requires a little thought. WF talk about routing pipes under the floor pan, however owners question this and if it’s a risk. that said all WF factory build cars apparently do it this way. The alternativebeing down the trans tunnel, this seems likely ideally the best route, albeig very fiddly looking. I suspect I may have another route – down the side of the lowered floor.

I did a trial fit of the front pipes, using some donated copper pipe.

Tonight i did get the front LH pipe in place – very clever pipe clips too, just knock in with a rubber mallet.

fitting final panels + pedals

43 + 43=46hrs

Fitting the final panels, the RH exterior panel, the two floor panels (Laura loves turning the chassis over 🙂 )

Not a lot to say here, these went on fine. the silkaflex stuff seems really good, very sticky, but nice sealant, goes of quick too, which is good, but means tubes must be used the same day really – expensive at £10 a tube, it ought be good!

fitted the final bits of the pedals, ordered the new clevis pins of the Internet in the end after finding nowhere sells clevis pins locally! I was after something very specific though…

Fitted though,three pedals and two master cylinders, as I’ve found the clutch master cylinder will have to come off when it comes to fitting the brake pipes to the neighbouring brake master cylinder – that’ll be fun!

Note i have fitted the LH inner tunnel panel, I suspect this may not be the right thing to do long term, but i wanted to get it all done, and didnt see the pipes going down the tunnel – we will see.

Since Id finished all the panels I went about tidying the chassis up – this meant going around sealanting the holes left in the chassis/panels. generally finding bits of light poking through the panels.

Also I found the odd rivet hadnt broken off 100% perfectly, only 5 or so, and usually those in difficult places. So i went about dremelling the little sharp tips smoothe – 🙂 Again – this is not a build of speed!

Riveting seat back panel and starting pedals

40.5hrs + 2.5hrs = 43hrs

Frist off I fitted the seat back panel after quickly giving the chassis rails a wipe with white spirit then cleaning off with water.

Amazingly the large seatback panel went on fine, it’s always a bit of a pain to negotiate into place but was still a good fit.Once in place and sat on the sealant i went about rivetting. The only thing of note was that there were two rivets I couldnt get to pull – they were just in such tight angles there was no chance of getting the rivet gun in. not an issue though as there were loads of rivets around it and it was on a good bed of sealant.

Cleaned up the stray sealant with white spirit, may want to fit a couple of scraps of ali around holes that ended too big.

Then fitted the GRP diff cover to the unriveted holes on the seatback and RH inner tunel panel, this was pretty easy, it is springy though!

I then went about fitting the pedals, as someone else mentioned on another blog (can’t recall exactly which), the clutch pedal mounting bracket was a fraction too tight, so a bolt and a few nuts were used to open it up a mm or two.

Once done it was fairly plain sailing, sleeve in, copper slipped, stud through, washers on, buts on etc. glad i left the RH external panel off, i can see this being a rigth pain with the panels all in place.

I will hold my hands up and admit in the excitement, the tiredness and rushing i did bold the brake master cylinder to the cluth position – five minutes later i looked at it and wondered what i was doing – at that point i knew it was time to stop!

After swapping through the right master cylinder the clutch part was fitted and sorted.

Since WF sent me a missing bolt and the missing operator fork/clevis i was open to fit the brake pedal too. Noting the brake operating fork/clevis was a larger one than the slightly flimsy looking clutch one. The new one is much fatter and weightier – it ws noted this was for brake use.

All well and good but i’ve now found the clevis pin doesnt fit through it long enough to get the split pin through – sigh.

So either thinner washers are required – or a slightly longer clevis pin.




RH Inner tunnel panel riveting

39.5 hrs + 1hr = 40.5hrs

Riveting the Inner panel – only the RH one mind as the LH one will stay on until the gearbox gets in – makes filling oil easier I believe.

This wasnt as troublesome as I thought it may, and fitted in nicely to a spare evening.