Monthly Archives: March 2011

Attaching panels 1

36hrs + 3.5 = 39.5

At last, with chassis drilled and panels tweeked, and chassis treated for any scratches and the tiny marks it was panel fitting time.

I knew this was going to be hard work and time consuming. No great suprise, it was.

As my paint was a tad tacky from the touchups I couldnt really do the inner tunnel panels. That said, as advised from other blogs I am going to leave of the RH external panel, and the LH inner tunnel panel.

So with this in mind I set ahead with the tunnel end panels, both RH and LH, end and side.

This let me get to gribs with the sealant, lots of recommendataions for Silkaflex, and indeed it is excellent, it was a little guess work to get flow rate etc, it’s obviouslky quite thick stuff as decanting it with a silocone gun was quite tough, certainly never found a silicone that is this hard work to get out teh tube!

So I got on with siliconing the tube, the key seems to be more than less, too much can be wiped off.

Now, the riveting, this was tough 🙂 It all seemed to depend on the angle i was at as to how difficult it was.

I do see why people have air riviters! That or i need to rope in a larger pal.

Today in about 3 hours I got the RH and LH tunnel ends and sides. The scuttle top panel. and the LH exterior panel.

Odd that the time/difficulty didnt necessarily be down to the size of the panel,more down to how accessable the rivets are. It does certainly look a lot better with something attached to it though!

A tad depressing how long it took to attach only these coulple, I realy thought I’d get more done in that time. That said I “only” have RH exterior panel (being leftoff until pedals are done), both inner tunel panels (LR being left off – I think, not sure yet, may jsut workround the transmission oil thing). Seat back. Floor panels. I didnt wan to have to turn the chassis upside down again, but after the fun of rivetting today I suspect it may be far better to do so.

Next job is to mail WF to confirm a couple of pedal bits, they don’t quite match those mentionedin the manual (are you suprised? I’m not 🙂 )

Then I would be looking to get hold of the fuel pipes, brake pipe clips, fuel pipe clips and a means of attaching the wiring loom (no mention or suggestion of how this is done in the manual).

I can’t help but think the above 4 bits ought be in the

starer kit – but they arent, they are in the completion kit.

Preventative rust treatment

34+ 2 = 36hrs

After a chat with Mark from WF I was advised that the transmission hoop could do with treating, but the otehr bits are likely nothing, just where water has sat. In this case it was likely condensation in the garage.

After much investigation POR15 kept coming up as the best thing to put on any bits that needed treatment. Likely it is very much overkill given the chassis is new, but as nothing was attached it seemed made to not do it.

So after finding Holden were about the only people in the UK to stock the stuff i ordered a “starter kit” of it. It arrived and is excellent stuff. Quite particual about how it should be used, and the instruction are quite, er, Americanised!? Lots of slightly OTT comments in them.

That said you do need to use it in a well ventilated area, i was in my garage with the door open the whole time, but a couple of hours with the stuff has given me a sore throat and made me look like I have a penchant for heroin. Namely a really white face and very panda eyes. Obvious strong stuff, so do heed the warnings!

Anyway,I applied the Marine Clean, Metal Ready, then two coats of POR15. Followed by 4 thin coats of satin black Hamerite.

Initially I suspected I’d apply the treatment sparingly on tiny areas, but when I applied it i ensured the areas of interest got a good coverage.

A couple of pics of the work, this is after one coat of hammerite, you get the gist.

Why no progress? And pedal organisation

1 hr + 33hrs = 34hrs
Why no progress? Well, not been away or anyhing particuarly glamorous. A bit of a set back in that I had noticed brown dots appearing over the chassis, also noted a few rusty brown specs here and there. This, needless to say was/is a bit of cause for concern. Especially as I was about to fit the carefully drilled panels.

I’ve pinged out to the WSCC forum, and found several people had had issues with the WF powdercoating – being, er, not brilliant. My concern was that I’d be fitting panels, and ultimatyely building a car around a corroding chassis.

So I have found that the dots wipe off, but still not 100% sure there isnt a bigger problem

I’ve since called Mark from WFs Technical people and he mentioned this can happen if the chassis gets damp outside and water sits on it. Although i konw my garage doesnt leak,I do know it gets cold in there and can condensate. Mark suggested i spray the whole chassis with wd40 and wipe it down to give a little covering at this stage. I’ve done this and it does look a bit better.

Mark has some photos of the chassis for him to take a look over, hopefully he will instill me with confidence.

I have bought a POR 15 starer kit as is strongly advised when doing touch ups on the paint work. So I plan to use this on parts like the bottom of the transmission hoop, where it has found a 3cm x 1cm scratch, tad annoyed by this.

Also in the excitement I have looked over the pedal setup. this bit looks pretty straight forward, but I cant really start this until the tunnel end panel is on to drill the accelerator cable hole through, and i cant start panelling until i get Mark from WFs green light all looks okay.

What was a little disappointing/unsuprising 🙂 was that the required bits for pedals arent really there. Like the stud for the clutch pedal, it’s 70mm, not what is says in the manual. not the end of the world at all, and looking at other blogs it looks like it pretrudes from the mount about the same amount, so I guessit is the right size.

However the bolts (or are they screwsets!?) arent the length specified in the manual, however there are only two that are a plausible size. Again, not the end of the word,  just means it may get interesting when it comes to making educate decisions around what is right going forward. All part of the fun I suppose 🙂 That said, it does make me think, how hard would it be to make the manual be 100% accurate, or to have as part of the kit 100% the “right parts”. I know it’s not going to be “big lego”, but equally I do feel they could make everyones life easier! </end rant> 🙂

a few pics of some areas of question. and of me looking at pedal parts.